Cyclone Frieda and the Incredible Sulk

  NEW EDITION — Unabridged and Illustrated  

[from “Around the World on a Shoestring” — Chapter 3]

New Zealand to Australia, March 1981

by Joseph Stevenson with illustrations by Rita M Brown

PREFACE

I’ve decided that prefaces are definitely better than postscripts. Make your excuses before the fact I say. Nobody is going to go back and forgive you for an intemperate remark on page five because of a blanket apology on page twenty-nine. If you had to do your writing with malaria mosquitos buzzing around your ears, tubercular drunks hanging over your shoulder, sweat dripping off your nose, and disco drumming through the walls, better by far to make these appeals for sympathy on page one.

I don’t know about you, but sitting here in Calcutta I’m a bit weary with writing all this autobiography. The piece I wrote about Hawai’i I rather enjoyed myself. I read it a number of times. If I still had a copy I wouldn’t mind reading it again. It makes me laugh. The next installment, on the South Pacific, was not so much fun for me. With this one, written under the difficult circumstances sketched above, without a typewriter (sob), without so much as a single cup of coffee (gasp), I begin to wonder what I do it for. Is anybody reading this crap? These days when I sit down to write I generally end up feeling like a geek staring fixedly into the mirror of the past. The truth, I suppose, is that I’m homesick, and all my accumulated mail for the past four months has disappeared into a black hole somewhere in the vicinity of Rangoon, Burma. To distract myself I have taken up the pen, but it has not taken my blues away.

The trip across the Tasman Sea came as sort of a climax to 22 months of nearly continuous involvement with boats, beginning with boat repair work in Hawai’i, a boat-building job in American Samoa, followed by sailing roughly 4500 nautical miles of ocean passages from Samoa to Tonga, Tonga to New Zealand, and N.Z. to Tahiti. The sailing experience is difficult for me to write about just because I love it so much. It’s too deep and multi-faceted to explain in a few words, and a lot of words seems like too much. To stand alone on the deck of a sailboat looking out across an endless expanse of storm-whipped ocean, with everything under control for the moment and a cup of hot soup in your belly…you could write a whole book about all the factors that contribute to that moment, but what would that explain? It’s hard to write about the good times, I’ve said that before. First of all, it’s difficult to communicate exactly what it was that was so good, and at the same time I always feel like the attempt is as likely to trigger cynicism as any other emotion. As I try to cram the right words into place, I can just hear the reader saying, “Big deal…” I guess what I’m saying is I wish I were a better writer. Sorry.

Anyway, for what it’s worth, I love sailing, all sides of it except for one. I wouldn’t care to own a sailboat. Too much work; never-ending headaches of inspection, maintenance and repair. I’ve done plenty of that as it is. I’m quite happy to sail other people’s boats. Don’t even try to give me one unless a couple of dedicated servants and a large expense account comes with it. No…nobody has tried to give me a sailboat yet, but I mean it, I’m serious. Nothing is more likely to turn a perfectly nice fellow (like me) into a raging tyrant than a few seasons of sailboat maintenance, that is, I repeat, unless he can afford to hire (or con) competent help to do it for him. 

Somebody has to pay for all those days spent scraping gunk off the bottom or brushing it on, those hours in the so-called engine “room” upside-down and bent into a human pretzel with knuckles and elbows bruised and bleeding, the never-ending battle against the menace of water, fresh from above and salt from below, steadily gnawing away at every piece of wood, wire, paint, and metal. “What’s that noise?” “Where’s that water coming from?” and the plaintive “It worked in the shop…” No thanks, just hand me the sextant.

Joseph M. Stevenson     Calcutta, India     May 20, 1982

ADDENDUM

 This is the “original” unabridged version of this account, well over twice as long as a later edition circulated privately and previously published online. The illustrations, omitted from the abridged version, will assist those wanting to nose into the details of the yacht itself and the foul weather strategies we employed. 

Astoria OR    September 2018

                   

By the time we got the bad news over the radio, the crew of Seahawk had settled into a routine of sorts, governed by a list of watches and duties I had posted in the galley. An uneasy peace gradually supplanted the incessant bickering and the explosions large and small that had peppered both our three-day “shakedown cruise” to White Island and back, and the subsequent four-day trip up the east coast of New Zealand from Auckland to the Bay of Islands. From there, on March 4th, the five of us set sail for Australia; Michael and Christine Tubbs, the owners, aged 42 and 32 respectively, two recently-acquired crew, Mike Hart and Rod Townsend, both white-collar Kiwis in their mid-30s, and me, 39 years old and now 20 months and 6400 miles down the road from Astoria, Oregon, USA.

I had been living with the Tubbs’ for nearly two months already, helping them to complete final preparations for the maiden voyage of their 37-foot trimaran, assembled over nearly a decade of intermittent labor in their Auckland backyard. Due to an unfortunate complex of personal problems (I’m trying to be generous here) the Tubbs’ had never learned how to sail. Now with their bridges burned behind them and their 10-year-old son waiting for them in Brisbane, Australia, they were face to face with the unnerving task of sailing an untried boat across one of the world’s most notorious stretches of ocean with a “green” crew in the middle of hurricane season, when no sensible yachtie ventures out on the Tasman Sea. I was the only one on board who had ever sailed on the ocean before, and my previous experience came to a grand total of 31 days at sea. In my first 14 days I had learned the rudiments of celestial navigation, and my next 17 days of sailing were spent navigating a new 46-foot catamaran being delivered from N.Z. to Tahiti. On Seahawk I was officially the navigator, as no one else on board had ever used a sextant before or plotted a course. However, it soon became obvious that nobody else knew how to set a sail or even steer by compass, and so the overall responsibility for running the boat and training the crew fell on me by default.

At the same time, I was expected to maintain the pretense that Michael Tubbs was Captain of the boat. For these two months I had tried to educate him to his task as best I could. I spent hundreds of hours answering questions, discussing potential problems, and checking over the boat inch by inch, but in the end there’s no substitute for experience, no matter how many adventure books and yachting magazines you’ve read. During the trip to White Island it became apparent that our captain was prone to seasickness, and that deep down inside he was really scared. Afterwards he called a meeting of all the crew and tried to blame my “recklessness” for his hysterical behavior at sea. Mike and Rod did not agree with this view and took the opportunity to let him know that they were not interested in making the trip to Australia unless I was on board. Out of this meeting came the notion that from now on we would discuss important decisions amongst all the crew and try to develop a consensus, but Tubbs never really recovered from the ignominy of this occasion, and his subsequent behavior became increasingly childish; basically a profound sulk, with attendant bad manners and occasional tantrums.

A last attempt on my part to clear the air was scuttled when, in front of the whole crew, with nothing left to do but pull up the anchor for the last time in New Zealand waters, a sullen Tubbs refused to shake my proffered hand or muster a single friendly word with which to inaugurate our uncertain voyage. At this point I blew a fuse internally, decided that I would leave Captain Tubbs to his own devices, and retired to my bunk. As we motored out of the Bay of Islands someone tapped me on the shoulder with a question from the Captain, “Should we put up the sails?” It was like putting a match to a cherry bomb. I exploded all over him in a tirade to the effect that if he didn’t know whether or not to put up the sails on a sailboat, how the hell was he going to run the boat? I was done whispering in his ear what to do next. At this point I figured my best chance of enjoying this trip was to pretend that Michael Tubbs wasn’t on board. On this cheerful note we began our passage to Australia.

Figure One will give you an idea of what Seahawk looks like. She is 37 feet long overall, and if memory serves me, 22 feet across the beam. The cockpit is located amidships with the mast sitting in the center  of it. The wheel (tiller) is on a post just aft of the mast. Running down the center of the cockpit floor is a narrow well housing a large built-up plywood centerboard which can be lowered into the water under the main hull like an adjustable keel. It acts to give the boat more directional stability and better turning response when tacking (turning to take the wind from the other side of the boat). All the sheets and halyards (the lines used to hoist and trim the sails) come to the cockpit, hence it is seldom necessary to leave the cockpit in the course of normal sailing, a nice safety feature. Of the three forestays (A,B,C), A and B are used to fly the jib and staysail respectively, and C is for mast support only. Only the jib, flown from the first forestay (A) requires a crew member on deck to handle it. 

Figure 1.jpg

When bad weather threatens, the first thing you do with this rig is to drop the jib and secure it. If the wind increases, you can put one or two reefs in the mainsail, decreasing its surface area. This can be done right in the cockpit. If the wind gets over 40 knots it’s time to drop the staysail, perhaps substituting the little storm jib. It is possible to hank on or remove the staysail while standing in the forward hatch (D), actually using the toilet as a footstool. If the weather is that rough the toilet may take a bit of spray, but it’s a great comfort not having to go out on deck. I like the center-cockpit, cutter rig (two foresails) design; it’s very sensible for safety, convenience, balance, and adaptability to weather conditions. The only significant disadvantage, as far as I can see, is that because of all the lines and rigging in the vicinity it is extremely difficult to devise a workable canopy or dodger to protect the helmsman from the wind and weather. In tropical, latitudes this is not a serious problem, but in Alaska, or even the Pacific Northwest, it could get to be a drag.

Viewed from the front, a trimaran somewhat resembles a bird with its wings outspread. The two out-hulls are kept pretty much empty for maximum floatation. (If you should capsize, it’s the out-hulls that keep you afloat.) In the center hull, as already mentioned, the toilet is located in the bow. It is curtained off from the next space, a washroom with a sink, a bench, and some stowage cupboards. There are ventilation cut-outs from this area into the “wing-decks” between the center hull and the out-hulls, to keep dampness from building up. I cut and pre-drilled plywood covers for all these cut-outs, to be applied quickly in case wave action should punch holes in the underwings in a big storm. This would serve to keep water out of the center hull in such an emergency. At the same time, I made plywood “storm-covers” for all eight windows on the boat, to be nailed into place should we be faced with a “survival storm”, a real “get-down-on-your-knees-and-pray” hurricane.

Item E is the self-inflating eight-man life raft, which comes completely stocked with food, water, paddles, flashlight, signal mirror, smoke bombs, fishing lines, Dramamine, and morphine. I can’t tell you what a protracted argument went on between Tubbs and me over where to put this $2000 marvel. I reasoned that with the boat upside-down, and undoubtedly a dreadful tangle of lines everywhere, I would not care to dive under the boat with a knife between my teeth to cut the lashings securing this treasure. Tubbs couldn’t really dispute this argument, but neither could he see putting it in some asymmetrical location near the edge of the deck spoiling the racy lines of his craft, and perhaps tempting some greedy wave to snatch it away in the night. I finally shut up, and the life raft was wrapped in a bright yellow oilcloth and lashed to the forward cabin-top, where it sat like a great gold nugget. I came along later and revised the lashings to make them a bit more vulnerable, and taped a sharp knife to the oilcloth to save wear and tear on my teeth.

Just aft of the life raft is the hatch and companionway leading to the forward cabin. Each cabin contains two bunks, a double on one side and a single on the other. The foot of each bunk actually lies beneath the bench running fore and aft on each side of the cockpit. The forward sleepers have their heads toward the bow, and the aft sleepers face the stern; get the picture? In the aft cabin, after the bunks comes the galley, with propane stove, sink, counter, and cupboards. (An ice-chest under the floorboards stayed cold for about a week.) In the extreme stern, with windows all around it, sits a lovely formica table flanked by comfy benches, and featuring a panoramic view of where you’re coming from, which at sea looks pretty much the same as where you’re going. This table, while admittedly quite handsome and sturdy, was for some reason not flat. In the absence of any other area in which to work, I had to do my navigation on the galley table which, with its gently undulating hills and valleys used to drive me wild, especially when trying to “walk” across a chart with the parallel rulers. If I happened to land on a hill, the rulers would suddenly pivot, leaving me to grit my teeth and start again.

That’s the dingy (F) lashed to the roof of the galley, and the wind-vane for the self-steering mechanism (G) sticking up behind it. I argued against putting the dingy here, where it would be in the way when furling the mainsail to the boom or adjusting the self-steering. But again, as with the life raft, it seemed to be symmetry rather than convenience that counted with Tubbs. Having the decks clear would have been a distinct blessing on other yachts I’ve sailed on, but on Seahawk, where one rarely had to leave the cockpit and there was lots of deck space, it didn’t really matter. I never knew Tubbs to touch the self-steering anyway; hanging over the stern was my specialty. Not shown in the drawing are the safety lines I installed running from the cockpit to the bow and stern. Each crew had a “safety harness” as well as a life jacket, and in rough weather was expected to clip the end of the “leash” on his safety harness to some part of the boat when on deck. If a crew had to venture out on deck fore or aft, he or she could clip onto these safety lines before leaving the cockpit.

The “Searunner” series of trimarans designed by Jim Brown are aimed at the backyard handyman interested in serious ocean cruising. The Searunners are not racing machines, designed more for safety and livability for the cruising family, but with following winds and a favorable sea they can be persuaded to “surf” the waves at 15 or 20 knots, a most exhilarating sensation. Their safety record is remarkable. As of about 3 years ago [1978], when the latest Jim Brown book was published, with well over 1000 Searunners in the water, only one boat had actually capsized. (During our shakedown cruise when the wind began to gust up to perhaps 20 knots, Tubbs became convinced that we were about to become the second casualty.) Brown lives and runs his business in Berkeley, California and his books and building manuals bear the mark of Berserkeley ingenuity, creativity, and humor. In particular, the illustrations and cartoons, by an artist whose name escapes me, are really hilarious. There is also a fascinating book, co-authored by Brown and Mark Hassel, with illustrations by the same artist, called “Love for Sail”, that would make anyone drop whatever they were doing and start building a trimaran. Tubbs had this book and constantly referred to it in conversation, almost as if he had made the voyages and fought the battles described therein.

                   

There being five crew, ordinarily watches would have been two hours on followed by eight hours off, but for several reasons, mainly the fact that most of the crew were still not adept at steering by compass, I doubled all the watches. For two hours one crew would be assigned as “lookout”, while the other steered the boat, eyes on the compass. Then the helmsman went off-duty, the lookout took over the wheel, and a new lookout came on deck. This system allowed each crew to practice steering without the need to keep lookout at the same time, provided company and help should any problem arise. The boat’s self-steering actually worked quite well, better than most of the crew certainly, but I wanted everyone to learn to steer by hand first. We knew when we departed N. Z. that there was a small cyclone about 1000 miles to the north, and if it should turn our way we would need as many competent hands on the tiller as we could muster. The watches were so arranged that I did not have to share the cockpit with Captain Tubbs, who had been in a profound sulk ever since the sail-raising incident and had so far made no move to take command of his boat.

The only other scheduled duty on board was galley clean-up, which was the responsibility of each crew member once every five days in rotation. Cooking was left to the discretion of the hungry, although anyone working out in the galley was expected to enquire of anyone else not asleep at the time whether they would care to share in the meal under preparation. This system worked quite well in practice and was something of an emancipation for Christine who had apparently been cooking for and cleaning up after Tubbs & Son for many years without any help from Michael. She was not particularly keen on the boating life. She told me she’d gone along with Michael’s dream, for ten years pouring all of the family’s resources into the boat, out of a sense of wifely duty. About the trip she was admittedly nervous, but again felt it was her duty to go it with Michael rather than fly to Australia with her son. In the early days of the trip, as Tubbs sulked and festered, Christine took an interest in things on the boat. I think it was really the first time in ten years that she had enjoyed any significant freedom from heavy domestic labors or social contact apart from her childish and demanding husband. They still spent a lot of time together, but Christine seemed to have decided, much as I had, not to let Michael’s black mood ruin the trip for her. She learned to steer a straight course by compass; Tubbs never did.

The second day out, for some reason I couldn’t find the regular N.Z. marine weather broadcast. At the appointed hour there was nothing on any of the scheduled frequencies, not so much as a bit of garbled static. Strange, but what can you do? There was enough wind from the north to keep us moving westward at an easy 5 or 6 knots, but not enough to rekindle the captain’s fear of capsize. Tubbs merely sulked, I immersed myself in my navigation, and everyone else began to relax and enjoy the pleasant weather. For this trip I had decided to use the trigonometric functions on my little $20 Casio calculator instead of the big book of Sight Reduction Tables. On the Tahiti trip I’d had the use of a pre-programmed navigational calculator that belonged to the boat. This time I manually punched in the spherical geometry equations that were pre-programmed into that other calculator and came up with the same results. It just took a little longer. I had a goodly collection of equations for figuring out any number of things and I spent many hours during the trip trying them out. I only used the tables once, just to make sure I hadn’t forgotten how. They make things easy, but it’s a heavy book and hard for a traveling man to pack around.

Then at about 5 PM on the third day out, the weather forecast came in loud and clear. Cyclone “Frieda” had done the very thing we had hoped she wouldn’t do. Not only had she changed course from east to south, but the storm was now moving towards us at a speed of twenty knots instead of six. The voice gave the projected location of the storm’s center for various times in the next twelve hours and I jotted down the coordinates. The only good news was that apparently Frieda had not increased in severity. Her winds were still being clocked at a maximum of sixty knots, nothing to sneeze at, but just barely rating the title of “cyclone”. My hand shook a bit as I plotted the predicted path of the storm as well as our own projected course. They coincided neatly at a point about 150 miles north and slightly west of the North Cape of New Zealand. I was glad I had given the Cape a wide berth. More ships are lost on a lee shore than sunk by wind and waves. According the radio we had about 24 hours before the storm would be upon us.

The trimaran is a fast-moving design. In 24 hours a tri should easily cover 100-200 miles, and there’s generally a big difference between being smack in the path of a storm and being 100 miles away. But there was a serious problem for us regarding evasive action. We were presently headed west and Frieda south, and the wind was out of the north. To continue west would put us right in the path of the weather. Our only chance to avoid the  storm was to turn east, back the way we’d just come, never a happy choice. Furthermore (see Figure Two), in the southern hemisphere the winds of a cyclonic storm revolve in a clockwise direction around the center of low pressure. For us this meant that as the storm system approached our position the winds would likely move around to the east, and we would be faced with having to beat our way into the mounting seas, bound to be slow going as well as hard on the boat. To head south was to close with the N.Z. coast, the last place I wanted to be in foul weather. 

Figure 2.jpg

In my big green Bowditch (“The American Practical Navigator,” the Bible of marine navigation), discussing the tactics of hurricane evasion he speaks of two sides to a hurricane: the “safety side” and the “danger side.” In the southern hemisphere the danger side is the right (east) side if you are in the path of the storm and facing its center. If you can head for the safety side (A), the winds will tend to push your craft out of the path of the storm. Whereas if you must head for the danger side (B) the weather will try to push you into the path of the storm and fight you every step of the way.  Nevertheless, our best bet seemed to be to head east, as close to the wind as possible, and hope we could get far enough east of the storm that the winds would stay northerly and not hinder us (C). Remember, Frieda was still over 100 miles north of us and reportedly on a course that would pass about 100 miles west of our current position. To turn around and try to put another 100 miles between us and Frieda seemed like the prudent thing to do.

Still, this was the situation I had dreaded right along, and the reason I’d wanted to push Seahawk a bit during the trip to White Island. If it happened that we were forced to run for it in nasty weather, I’d wanted to have some idea of how the boat would react. But Tubbs had gotten hysterical every time the wind had come up and screamed bloody murder until we dropped the mainsail, so I never got a chance to let Seahawk kick up her heels or even to check the adjustment of the rigging with a bit of strain on the mast. At one point in the recriminations after that trip I accused Tubbs of concealing some defect in the construction of the boat. It puzzled me that he should be so nervous about what, by all reports, was quite a seaworthy design. Eventually it dribbled out that he was worried about the strength of the underwings, but “capsize” is what he had actually been shouting about, a different issue entirely. So here we were, faced with a bad choice, but no real alternative. I explained the situation to everybody and changed course 180 degrees. Tubbs held his peace. The wind had already moved somewhat to the east, and to sail east and not south we had to take the weather pretty much on the nose.

As the evening progressed the ocean got rougher, and the waves began to jump up and slap the underwings with an impact that shook the whole boat. By this time I had done some research into this problem of wave action on the underwings. Some Searunner builders choose to build “open wing,” leaving the wing decks largely open except for the main structural members connecting the center hull to the out- hulls, thereby eliminating the pressure of the waves against the big, flat plywood panels of the conventional design. Brown’s builder’s manual contained a few suggestions for strengthening the construction in the wing deck areas, but these suggestions had not been incorporated by Tubbs into his boat. Eventually I realized that he had already cracked both underwings down the middle where the two plywood panels butted together, probably during one of his two excursions on Auckland Harbor before I came along. He had gotten into some major difficulties on the second trip, though he refused to elaborate, and what I know about it now came in bits and pieces from Christine, from some neighbors, from my own guesswork, and from one subsequent incident that took place later in our voyage. Those long cracks, one on each side, I remembered filling with epoxy when we had the boat out of the water in Auckland. I had already made some provisions for serious damage to the underwings at suggestion of another Auckland Searunner owner (the pre-drilled plywood covers for the ventilation cut-outs). 

As the waves began to work on the underwings, Tubbs began to sputter and I began to reduce sail, until finally around midnight the last sail came down. There seemed to be nothing else to do. To proceed was punishing the boat for little gain, to alter course was to head for greater danger, and so we “hove to.” The boat seemed take care of herself pretty well with the tiller lashed down, and we all turned in.

Dawn was red and angry-looking with big black clouds covering the northern horizon, recalling the old sailor’s ditty: “Red sky in the morning, sailor take warning.” The morning weather broadcast announced a new projected path for Cyclone Frieda. She had apparently drifted eastwards of her earlier course and was now headed directly for our new position as near as I could figure. When no one was watching I lay down at the leading edge of the wing decks and looked at the underside. The cracks I remembered had reopened down the middle on both sides. In addition, inside the port wing a stringer had pulled loose from the plywood, and the protruding nails had punched a few extra holes in the skin of the boat. I pulled the nails to keep them from further mischief. The actual damage was slight, and pretty much self-draining should water get in, but it was a warning not to push too hard into the weather. I got my face washed several times during this inspection; the ocean was still quite rough. I mentioned my findings to Mike and Rod, but not to Tubbs. I figured there was a chance that he might use such an excuse to order us back to New Zealand, an order which would have resulted in open mutiny, a situation I wished to avoid if at all possible. With the weather acting up our Captain was not feeling at all well, and there was no chance whatsoever that he’d be making any such inspections himself. 

With Frieda heading straight for us, we were now free to run for the safety side of the storm, also the Australia side I noted with some satisfaction. The wind had come around almost easterly; we put it on the port quarter and sailed southwest under storm jib, staysail, and double-reefed main. It was an odd-looking but well-balanced rig, and we ran downhill all day at 7 or 8 knots, mostly in bright sunshine; the dark clouds to the north never caught up with us. I began to wonder what had happened to our cyclone. I was actually feeling a bit let down thatafternoon when I wrote facetiously in the log: “Weather: Mostly fair with occasional cyclones,” a parody of the typical Auckland weather forecast: “Mostly fair with some clouds, occasional rain, and possible thunderstorms.” By late afternoon the dark clouds had vanished, the 20 knots of wind had backed somewhat to the north, and in the absence of a new radio report I decided that Frieda had either passed us by, gone off in some other direction, or perhaps just blown herself out. I put the boat on a westerly course, with the north wind on the starboard beam, and as night fell we were once again pointed towards Australia.

But the weather would not cooperate, and before long we were beating into roughening seas much as we had the night before. Again, the waves began to pound on the underwings, Tubbs began to grumble, and I dropped the staysail at 8 PM at the end of my watch. Christine was at the helm with Mike Hart on lookout about 9 PM when I crawled out of my bunk and prepared to go back on deck. It didn’t sound so good out there. All of a sudden Tubbs came exploding out of his bunk across the way and started raving that I was trying to destroy his boat. I let him rave as I put on my foul-weather gear. Then Mike Hart opened the hatch from the cockpit to see what all the commotion was about. The two of them began to shout at each other, and it was really the both of them I was addressing when I finally yelled, “BE QUIET!” Just before I went up on deck I said to Tubbs, in the calmest, coldest voice I could muster: “I’d advise you to watch your mouth.” Surprisingly enough it shut him up. Looking back on it I think it finally dawned on him that the rest of us were about ready to stuff a rag in his mouth and strap him into his bunk. 

Up on deck it was bad news. Christine, bless her, was doing her best, scared but determined, but the weather was getting out of hand. I took the wheel and sent her below. After a few more minutes of crashing through the night, Mike and I dropped the main. We were now down to just the little storm jib out on the first forestay and just barely moving. The storm jib really belonged on the second forestay for better balance, but there seemed little point in shifting it now. The weather was still building, boat was complaining (not to mention the owner), and I was not about to turn around and sail east again. After another ten minutes or so I gave the wheel to Mike, clipped onto the safety line, and went out on the bow to gather in the storm jib. I gave up trying to guess what Frieda might do next. We bagged all the sails, lashed everything down, and retired to our bunks.

There are many possible strategies to bring a boat safely through bad weather, but one of the simplest and most reliable is just to pull down the sails, close everything up tight, go below and wait. Like a bottle with a cork in it, so long as it doesn’t hit something solid and break, chances are it will, like the red red robin, keep bob-bob-bobbin along. I had read a book belonging to Tubbs by a man who had sailed a trimaran around the world single-handed and non-stop, and this was his one and only foul-weather tactic: take down the sails and go to sleep. True, his boat took such a beating that she eventually broke up and sank, but he did make it around the world, and I reckoned we could make it through the night. Sometimes this tactic is combined with a small sail and the rudder set so as to keep the boat nosing into the waves, but every boat is different, and it takes a bit of experimenting to find out how to set the sail and tiller for best results. I did not propose to start experimenting at 10 o’clock at night. Besides, a multihull doesn’t rock and roll the way a monohull does when left to drift in a running sea; so long as the waves didn’t start breaking over the boat, I saw little reason to start fooling around on deck.

At exactly 2 o’clock in the morning I was rudely awakened by a tremendous crash as a big wave hit the boat. I reluctantly pulled on my already-wet clothes. There was no point in going out there in dry ones, they wouldn’t stay that way long. The boat was strangely quiet. It seemed impossible that anybody could actually be sleeping, but nobody stirred. How did I feel? Well, before we ever left New Zealand I had done everything I could to prepare for the possibility of cyclone weather. I had harped continually on this possibility all the time we were outfitting and stocking the boat, and I’d had to fight hard for some of the gear we had on board. I had studied all the available literature on foul-weather tactics for multihulls and talked to other owners. I’d been through every inch of Seahawk and had scrutinized our human resources as well. Like the generals with their H-bombs I was almost eager to see some action. I knew, or believed at any rate, that we were not likely to face winds of more than 60 knots, and that such a fast-moving storm would be unlikely to trouble us for more than a day. (Actually, the last weather broadcast I’d received, earlier that evening, had demoted Frieda from her cyclone rating. They were now calling her a “severe depression,” an apt description of the effect she was having on my crew.)

I had lived through such weather before while tuna fishing offshore in the Pacific Northwest, and I had little doubt that I would live through this one as well. I knew that no one else on board was quite as sure about it no matter how I reassured them, but my confidence was their best support, and I kept that in mind later when my own knees began to shake. They had never seen anything like what lay outside, and my first priority was to see that nobody got hurt. I reasoned that if I kept any helpers in the cockpit and safety-harnessed to the boat, it would be hard to lose anybody unless we capsized. Of course I could lose it and fall off the boat or something equally fatal, but that kind of danger is always there on a boat, and with so many other people depending on me I was going to be extra careful. I confess I’ve always preferred the thought of drowning to getting run over by a city bus. So many of the battles we wage in the lives we lead are over abstractions: love, money, loyalty, prestige, doctrine, and so forth. How many of the dangers we fear are real? There is a simple reality to a storm that threatens to smash your boat and take your life. It’s an honest game, and if you win nobody gets hurt.

The scene on deck was intimidating. The wind was screaming through the rigging and all around the boat I could hear great waves breaking in the darkness. My job was to get the boat to take the waves over the bow or the stern. The biggest danger lay in getting it broadside where breaking waves could do real damage, even flip us over, a real disaster on a multihull as it is impossible to right the boat once capsized. A trimaran turned turtle will not sink unless the waves succeed in breaking up the boat, but there is no question of’ righting it again. You set up housekeeping in your upside- down craft, turn on your emergency radio beacon, and hope somebody finds you soon. If the boat breaks up, you deploy the life raft and start paddling and praying.

The first thing I tried was trailing a line with a chain attached to the end. Even without any sails up, the wind is moving the boat, especially a lightweight multihull. If you trail lines in your wake it can help to keep the boat pointed away from the weather, or so it said in the books I’d read. I opened the hatch to the forward cabin, where Mike and Rod had their bunks. I reached in and switched on the spreader lights up on the mast, illuminating the deck area, and asked Rod to prepare the line and chain. I closed the hatch while Rod went to work and took a look around. Apparently Tubbs had been out on deck at some point in the night as someone had done a very messy job of trying to keep the main halyard from slapping against the mast. There was a tangle of lines in the cockpit, and as the weather raged around me I tidied up and secured loose ends. Rod fed the line to me from below and I ran it over the side. Trailing a line and chain established that we were sailing downwind on the starboard tack, but it did not seen to have any straightening effect on the course of the boat relative to the weather, and I fed it back down the hatch to Rod. 

Interesting fact: there are only two “ropes” that I know of on a sailboat. One is the “bell-rope” attached to the clapper of the ship’s bell, often elaborately knotted, and the other, the “bolt-rope” is sewn into the perimeter of the sail. Aside from these there are lines, sheets, halyards, vangs, rodes, warps, hawsers, and half a dozen others I never learned or disremember, but no ropes. Technically what I was feeding into the sea at the moment was a “warp”. It’s the function of a line that determines its proper name.

At this point Captain Tubbs appeared in the cockpit, as white as his foul-weather parka. “Put out the sea anchor!” he croaked. A joke perhaps? A proper sea anchor which you could toss out in a bad storm to keep you dead in the water and bow-on to the waves, was the one thing I had not been able to persuade him to purchase. The beauty of such a device, basically just a nylon parachute on a long bridle, was that once in position it needed no attention, that is to say, no one on deck. When there was nothing left to do, or you were too tired to do it, you could utilize such a sea anchor to keep the boat under control. It would have meant a cash outlay of at least several hundred dollars and Tubbs pleaded poverty. I had finally agreed to a compromise, getting an extra crew member in lieu of a sea anchor, but it irked me when, just before our departure, our poverty-stricken captain went down to the duty-free shop in Auckland and spent over $400 on two gold wrist watches, electronic marvels that would do everything but whistle Dixie. I don’t think they could whistle Dixie, but I’ll never know for sure because Tubbs couldn’t figure out how to make them work (and I didn’t feel like trying). A thick book in five languages came with each watch, and after a week or so Tubbs got his watch to tell approximately the right time, but even two professional jewelers they consulted couldn’t seem to make sense out of Christine’s or get it to perform even one of its countless functions. 

Figure 3.jpg

 I reminded the captain that we didn’t have a sea anchor. I refrained from suggesting that he tie a line on to his gold wrist watches and try throwing them over the side. I got out what we did have, an automobile tire “drogue. Figure Three shows how it works. A piece of chain (A) helps keep the tire (B) down in the water, while another short piece of chain joins the tire to a large swivel (C). From the swivel, which keeps the lines clear if the tire should twist or spin, a line runs through a block (D) on each out-hull and secures to the big jib winches (E) at the rear of the cockpit. Unlike a sea anchor, the drogue does not stop the boat, in fact the boat must keep moving for it to function properly, hence there must always be someone at the helm. When the two bridle lines are of equal length, should a wave push the boat to one side (known as a “broach”) the line on that side becomes slack and the tension on the other line helps to pull the boat back on course. (See Figure Four: in this case the boat has broached to port. Port is left, starboard is right, basic nautical lingo. We covered this right?) 

Figure 4.jpg

That’s the theory anyway; I had never employed such a device before. Before our departure I had prepared two such drogues, complete with all the necessary lines and hardware. If we somehow managed to lose the first, I had another, bigger, stronger and heavier all the way around. (I’d had one conversation in Auckland with a man who’d lost two such drogues in the process of sailing his homemade tri across the Tasman.)

Putting out the drogue was the one thing that really did make me nervous. First of all in our low-budget operation I had to join two lines to make each side of the bridle. Since the necessary knot wouldn’t pass through the blocks on the out-hulls, I had to run the “boat end” of each bridle line through the block first, then join it to the “drogue end”. Then, when both bridle lines had been joined in this fashion and secured to the winches, I had to get out on the stern, heave the tire into the drink and hope that the lines wouldn’t tangle, or worse, foul the rudder, before the bridle came taut.

    Once there was tension on the drogue I could pay out the “boat end” section from each winch, but until then there was no way to pay the lines out slowly without letting someone else out on deck to help me, which I had decided not to do. By this time Tubbs was on his knees in the cockpit praying and throwing up, and had been joined by Mike Hart, who was game but terrified.  As long as they stayed in the cockpit and clipped on with their safety harnesses I didn’t worry about losing them, but I didn’t want either one of them out on deck. I put one on each winch and threw the tire off the stern. It went out without a hitch. I had my winch-operators feed out more line until we had about 150 feet of bridle from drogue to boat. Trouble was, in the dark there was no way to tell if the lines were exactly even. The boat was still careening from side to side and I remembered that we had to get moving enough to keep the lines taut. I turned the key on the motor but there was nothing.

I guessed as best I could on evening the bridle lines and sent Tubbs below. Steering to keep the boat stern-to-the-waves was difficult at best. The drogue was helping but not that much. The boat still broached frequently as the waves pushed us along and correcting it with the helm wasn’t easy. Sometimes there was just no response as you sat slack in the trough of a big wave, the compass telling you you were broadside to the weather, just waiting for the “big one” to come crashing down around your ears. Another problem was that the compass, rather small to begin with, was set into the forward wall of the cockpit, a good four feet in front of the wheel. There being no protection whatsoever from the elements in the cockpit of Seahawk, the wind (a solid 50 knots with higher gusts at this point) was blowing rain and sea-spray through your field of vision, and it was hard to see the compass.

I gave the wheel to Mike Hart for a moment, but just then the boat hurtled into another wild broach. Mike turned to me and said, “I’m sorry but my nerves are shot.” I had been saving Rod up to this point, and now I opened up the forward hatch again and stuck my head in. You could tell somebody had been throwing up. “Rod, can you take the helm for a while?” and told Mike to take a break. As Mike disappeared aft into the galley. Rod entered the cockpit swathed in his bright yellow oilskins. I gave him the course and told him, “Just do the best you can. Don’t panic if the boat broaches; use the helm and she’ll come around eventually.” Rod sat down beside the wheel, his lanky body leaning forward with his eyes glued to the compass, and pointedly ignoring the storm he held the fort while I went below for a cup of coffee.

It must have been about 4 AM by now. Tubbs was quiet in his bunk, from whence he did not stir for another twelve hours. Christine was tense and pale, but able to make coffee on our lurching galley stove. As I drank mine Mike Hart suddenly announced, “I’m going back out there. If I don’t go now I never will.” and he disappeared up the ladder. I had counted on Mike for energy and enthusiasm, Rod for steadiness and stability, and Tubbs not at all. Things were working out pretty much as I’d expected. I chatted with Christine. She apologized for not standing her watch. I laughed and told her we could manage for the time being, but that it would go easier on her at the court martial if she could come up with a pot of hot soup.

When I finished my coffee, I went back on deck and relieved Rod. I tried the engine again and it worked! Things were starting to go our way. I set the RPMs for about half normal cruising speed, just enough to keep us moving amongst all the turmoil, and it made an immediate difference. Not only did it become much easier to steer, but I knew that the sound of that little Italian diesel chugging away was a great comfort to everyone on board. Soon after the engine started, the first light of dawn gave me enough visibility to even up the bridle lines on the drogue. It also brought the awesome sight of mountainous green waves with white breaking crests as far as the eye could see in every direction, probably averaging about twenty feet high with occasional whoppers. 

Wave height is a deceptive thing, and probably the most commonly exaggerated statistic connected with a storm at sea; my estimate is consciously conservative. You may have noticed that when diving into water from a high place, it always looks about twice as far when you’re up there looking down at the water as when you’re down in the water looking up. On the sea it’s exactly the other way around. A twenty foot wave maybe doesn’t sound like much, or really look like that much when you’re on top of it, but when you’re down in the trough and you see a twenty foot wave rearing up behind you, it looks like a monster about to gobble up your little boat in one crunching bite and make mincemeat out of your composure, your rational mind, and your personal dignity. 

In the trough of the waves the motor kept the bridle lines tight from drogue to boat. Then as the following wave began to push the boat, the lines would tighten and stretch dramatically. Occasionally when a particularly big wave had us in its grip, the tire would actually come popping out of the water and roll down the wave face for a few seconds before the chain pulled it under again — a snapshot etched on my mind forever.

It was downright nerve-wracking to look behind. Every wave threatened to engulf the boat, snap the lines, and send us to the bottom, yet somehow we rode out each one, the lines held, and the boat no longer broached at all. I tried the self-steering and it worked perfectly. As full daylight arrived we were sailing through the storm on automatic pilot. I set the storm jib and shut down the engine. I stood on the roof of the aft cabin, holding on to the mainsail boom and surveying the scene: the endless miles of green and white froth, the dull grey sky, the roaring wind, and Seahawk, all cream and orange, sailing herself. Mike, Rod, and I took half-hour watches. I went below on a break and played a tape of some favorite Joni Mitchell songs: Electricity, Amelia, Woman of Heart and Mind, Barangrill, Raised on Robbery, and Judgement of the Moon and Stars. I had to put my ear close to the little speaker; it was still plenty noisy outside. Afterwards all those songs played in my head and echoed in the sound of the wind and waves for as long as the storm lasted. 

By about 8 AM the weather was moderating noticeably. Christine was still unable to sleep, and I talked her into taking a half-hour watch. I sat with her in the cockpit for a few minutes, and then left her alone in her big white slicker with all those waves. She’d have something to tell her grandchildren (and her husband). As the morning wore on the weather moderated rapidly, and by noon I had brought in the drogue. I checked the underwings; there was no further damage. By the time Tubbs emerged from his bunk late in the afternoon, the sea was flat calm and we were forced to motor. The maelstrom of the past night had become a duck pond, and about 6 PM I suddenly realized that lack of sleep was starting to make me grouchy.

                   

It took us another 11 days to reach Brisbane, days that were largely uneventful, at least compared to the drama of our first five days at sea. When everybody (except Michael) seemed to have the knack of steering by compass, I began to use the self-steering routinely and established a new schedule of single watches, each of us standing a two-hour watch followed by eight hours off. There was more time now for chatting, napping, reading, and culinary experiments. Tubbs eventually noticed the cracked underwings but didn’t make an issue of it.

A couple of days after the storm we passed Norfolk Island, 100 miles or so north of our course. Norfolk, which belongs to Australia, seems to be a quiet and peaceful place where nobody locks their front door. Recently the island had been rocked by news of a burglary in which some jewelry had been removed from the house of a long-time resident. After much agitated discussion in the local press, the thief apparently turned penitent, the jewelry was returned with an apologetic note, and Norfolk Island breathed easy again. We were able to pick up their radio station for a day. It was all 50s pop music. I remember hearing “Green Door,” “A White Sports Coat and a Pink Carnation,” and Patti Page singing “The Tennessee Waltz.” If they have television I imagine they watch “What’s My Line” and “The Adventures of Ozzie and Harriet.”

In the absence of any moves on his part towards reconciliation I continued to ignore Tubbs, and he continued his trans-ocean sulk. Rod, Mike and I spent many hilarious hours recounting his various gaffes: Tubbs’ antics at the helm, the knots he came up with, his distaste for galley duty and so forth became the comic relief of the trip for the rest of us. My communication with the Captain was limited to giving brief answers to direct questions (like “Where are we?”), hence I got into no arguments.

Rod managed to keep out of trouble pretty well, but Mike used to mix it up with Tubbs now and then. I recall one occasion when they got into a shouting match over something or other, and when they had simmered down they ended up going out on the bow of the starboard out-hull and having a heart-to-heart that went on for nearly an hour. I was on watch, Christine was sunbathing on the port side deck, while Rod was keeping me company and feeding me glasses of wine. We wondered to each other what might be born of the reconciliation taking place out on the bow. Then the conference broke up, the two Mikes came bouncing into the cockpit like brothers in Christ and announced that they were going to make scones.   

Tubbs asked me where Christine was, I pointed to the port side and said, “On the out-hull.” Next thing I knew he was crawling into my bunk with a flashlight in his hand. When I heard him calling her name I suddenly realized that he had thought I’d said, “In the out-hull.” The only way into the out-hull was to wriggle through my bunk and into a narrow crawl space leading through the wing-deck. I cracked up at the thought of Christine huddled out there and Michael not thinking it odd. It reminded me of days during our repair-and-make-ready work in Auckland, when Seahawk was hauled out of the water. Christine sometimes used to seek out thankless jobs in such secluded parts of the boat just to get away from her whining, griping husband. “I might just crawl out there myself,’’ I gasped, as Rod and I rolled with laughter.

About ⅔ of the way across the Tasman and somewhat south of Brisbane lies Lord Howe Island, another Australian property. I wanted to catch sight of Lord Howe for navigational reasons. First of all, until you actually see an identifiable point of land, all navigation is nothing but sophisticated guesswork. If you announce that a certain island will pop up on the horizon tomorrow at such and such a time and it actually does, it gives you a lot more confidence in your calculations as you close with terra firma at the end of a long passage. In addition, the more direct route to Brisbane, which would pass at least 50 miles north of Lord Howe, passes quite close to two infamous mid-ocean reefs, Elizabeth and Middleton, already strewn with the wrecks of unlucky ships. To confirm our position with a sighting of Lord Hove while in the neighborhood of these reefs seemed like a wise move.

Lord Howe did indeed appear on the port bow on the appointed day, though 3 or 4 hours later than my prediction. I blamed the discrepancy on an easterly current, the all-purpose navigator’s excuse, impossible to confirm or deny. Ocean currents, which are virtually impossible to detect or measure without high technology [in 1981] can move as fast as 4 knots an hour, which means 100 miles a day in a direction you might not want to go. The pilot books will give you statistical probabilities as to their strength and direction in a given area at a given time of year, but like the percentage “chance of rain” figures the weather man gives us, such figures are not a reliable indicator of what will happen on any given day. This is one more reason why a navigator must always allow a healthy margin for error. As this hypothetical current of mine would be pushing us in the direction of the reefs, I set the course a good 10 degrees more westerly than I might have otherwise until we were well past the danger.

One night as I was crawling into my bunk after coming off watch, I noticed a little puddle of water on the floor boards. There was nothing particularly unusual about this, it might have come through the hatch from the cockpit or somebody might have spilled something, but there was something about that puddle that wouldn’t let me fall asleep. Reluctantly I climbed out of bed and lifted the floor board. The bilge was full of water, salt water. I roused everybody and we manned the pumps. There were two hand pumps and one small electric, and using all three it took close to half an hour to pump out the boat.

The water was coming in through a pipe that acted as sort of a bearing for the shaft on which the centerboard pivoted. The open end of the pipe had been sealed with, get this, a rubber chair-leg tip, the kind you use to protect the floor. In the construction days Tubbs had just pushed the rubber cap the end of the pipe and figured that was good enough to keep out the sea. It also developed that this rubber tip had come off once before, during one of Seahawk’s two trial runs on Auckland Harbor before I came along. Tubbs had done nothing to correct the problem nor mentioned it to me. There was no need for me to say anything once I was sure we weren’t going to sink; I just stood back and let Captain Tubbs grapple with this problem. Captain Tubbs slapped the rubber cap back on the pipe. I scratched my head and gave each helmsman coming off duty the additional duty of checking the bilges and making a note in the log. By the time we had pumped out the boat for the third time I got impatient with Tubbs, who couldn’t seem to think of anything to do but slap the chair leg tip back on, and I devised a way to keep the rubber cap on the pipe. It was makeshift but it held, though we continued to make regular bilge checks for the rest of the trip. 

As the weather and the water warmed up I took to bathing in the following fashion: first a bucket of sea water over the head, then a heavy lather all over with shampoo — ordinary soap is useless in salt water. Next I would jump overboard holding on to the end of a line secured to the boat. To tow behind a moving sailboat at up to 5 or 6 knots is a marvelous sensation and an excellent way to rinse off the suds. Any faster than this can get hairy, as I’d already found out on Vehia, the racing catamaran I’d already sailed from N.Z. to Tahiti. For my first tow behind Vehia I tied a loop in the end of the line and threw the line in the water first. Then I dived off the stern and looked around to grab the line. The boat was moving along at about 10 knots, and I just barely managed to grab the line before the loop went zipping past me. When I did get hold of the tow line I thought it was going to pull my arm right out of its socket. It was difficult to keep my head clear of the water in order to breathe, and I was frankly scared by this unforeseen turn of events. I was eventually able to get back on board without assistance, but never again did I jump off a moving boat without the line in my hand, and certainly never at 10 knots.

The Australian coast came into view one afternoon more or less on schedule, and Rod, Mike, and I broke out a bottle of champagne we’d been saving. The Tubbs’ didn’t even come out on deck to see. Brisbane’s harbor is sheltered by a big sandy island, and with night falling we had just enough time to get inside the island and anchor for the night. The next morning, Saturday the 20th of March, we crossed Moreton Bay with all its fishing boats and cargo ships, and cleared customs half a mile up the Brisbane River.

Mike, Rod, and I had agreed that the first two things we wanted to to were (1) get our stuff off the coat and (2) swill some of that famous Australian beer. Rod had a sister in Brisbane and Mike a brother, and I had already accepted an invitation to stay with Mike’s brother for a few days. We took Seahawk on up the Brisbane River to a moorage at the Botanical Gardens, where the Tubbs’ reportedly had some yachting friends. We tied up between a couple of pilings, and ten minutes later I had my pack and fiddle on deck ready to jump ship. Christine thanked me with some kind words, and I gave her a big hug. I liked Christine, and I hoped she would somehow find a better lot in life here in her native land. 

Michael rowed us to the dock, and as I climbed out of the orange dingy he offered me the handshake he’d refused me back at the Bay of Islands the first day of the trip. “Thanks for everything.” he muttered, looking at my feet. I shook his hand, said “Good luck.” and was gone.

                   

This account of Seahawk’s passage to Australia is the story of both a success and a failure. The voyage itself was a success. Despite the unknown quantities of a new boat, an inexperienced crew and the physical trial of inclement weather, both boat and crew survived relatively unscathed. The failure was in my relationship to Michael Tubbs, or perhaps it wasn’t a failure, perhaps it was what might be called “an unpleasant inevitability,” “just what he deserved,” or “getting the job done goddammit.”

But deep down I know that there must have been a better way, and I regret that I couldn’t find it. These days [in 1981] I am reading a lot of books about ethics and ethical behavior. It’s a very tricky subject. The Tibetans, for instance, in order to obey the letter of the Buddhist precept not to shed the blood of living creatures, used to sometimes strangle their animals when they got a hankering for meat. Was it cruel of me to ignore Tubbs, to wait in vain for him to even make an attempt to stand up and take command? Was it kind of Christine to baby him all those years, wait on him hand and foot, and cater to his every whim? I did what it seemed like I had to do, even if it was a course of action I came to adopt in a moment of anger.

My meeting with Tubbs, our early conflicts and the work we did together to ready Seahawk for the voyage have already been detailed in my previous account “South Pacific.” I won’t review them here, but in the months before we set sail, while I was still trying to coax him into joining the party, my guiding philosophy was: “This man has been sent by God to try my patience.” God tried my patience every day, and often found it wanting. The next day I would try again, and so would God. My patience finally collapsed during an incident described earlier that coincided with our departure from New Zealand. It seemed like a failure at the time, but perhaps there is another side to it, perhaps patience is not always a virtue.

I believe in the quasi-military system of command that has long been a tradition at sea. Our “discussion and consensus” idea never really had a chance. There are many occasions aboard ship when the safety of the boat and the crew depends on fast action. There is no time for an encounter group, discussion, compromise, and consensus. There must be someone whose responsibility it is to assess the situation, decide on a course of action, give orders, and not be all day about it. That is not to say that there can’t be discussion, but if there is no time for it, the others on board should have enough respect and discipline to follow orders whether they understand them immediately or agree. Real boat Captains are more often cantankerous than careless, more often intemperate and downright impossible than incompetent.

I once worked for a 61-year-old fisherman on a two-man offshore tuna troller, a man who had a reputation for burning out his deckhands in a single trip, trips that often lasted 4 weeks or more. He was a loner and a diehard, a stingy, impossible-to-please taskmaster who had built his own 57-foot boat, and had more regard for her than for any human flesh and bone. One morning we woke up to find ourselves in the middle of a tempest of roughly the same intensity as Cyclone Frieda. As I stood there gaping at the size of the waves sweeping past us, old Joe Smith put the boat into gear and barked, “Throw out the jigs.” I was too astonished to say anything, I just fed out the fishing lines, and with waves breaking over my head we fished that storm all the way from Coos Bay, Oregon to San Pedro, California. Sometimes days went by without a civil word exchanged between Joe and I, but I had confidence in that man, who had seasoned his boat lumber in a warehouse for seven years before starting to build the “Spirit,” and that’s the reason I was able to sleep nights when the weather threatened to fling me right out of my bunk.

Yes, I believe that there should be one captain per boat. He must have real authority and he may not be a nice guy. The trouble is, and I’m afraid this is one thing that attracts many unfortunates like Tubbs to yachting, that this kind of authority or “playing God” can seem quite an attractive proposition, especially to people who have been pushed around and pecked at all their lives by their parents, spouses or employers. To suddenly become King of your own floating castle, to be judge and jury, priest and policeman, to marry and bury at sea…what a rush! Ah yes, that’s the life for me, on the open sea…that’s for me…the open sea….for me….sea…..me…..zzzzzzzzzzzz…

The night closes in around the ship like an impenetrable wall, echoing only the splash of the bow wave and the creak of the rigging. Captain Tubbs stands alone at the helm, gripping the polished hardwood spokes of the old wheel, hat tilted back exposing a brow furrowed with tension and watchfulness, his leathery jaw set against the wind and weather, gnawing at the stem of a pipe that went out hours ago. A cup of coffee is delivered up from the galley, and after two gulps he gives the order, “Haul on the bowline and hose down the poop deck.” Down below, sleepy crew leap out of their warm bunks to obey the call. “What’s the course?” he calls to the navigator. “Dead ahead, Sir,” comes the prompt reply. 

The Captain peers intently into the black curtain of night, sensing what he can’t quite see, or can he? Moving shadows to port, eerie noises to starboard, and what’s that smell? He turns to find the first mate standing by. The guy never changes his underwear at sea, says it’s bad luck. “Here Nelson, take the wheel,” Tubbs grumbles, trying to conceal his affection for the old salt. “Loyal as an old dog,” he thinks, “and always there when you need him.” With practiced fingers he quickly adjusts the sextant and takes a fix on Venus. “Just as I thought,” he cries, “we’re in the Hudson River.” Nelson farts and says nothing. They understand each other.

What these armchair admirals don’t realize is that the real sources of a Captain’s authority are his or her experience and acceptance of responsibility. Michael wouldn’t crew for anybody else and so he never learned to sail. He wanted to start at the top, but he didn’t have the experience and he didn’t really want the responsibility. When his authority was mysteriously taken away, or at least thoroughly undermined, all his pleasure evaporated. Whether or not he understood how or why it happened I didn’t care then and don’t know now. We completed the trip without my once having to actually refuse an order (there were precious few) or restrain him physically. It was a strange affair, and having struggled with the writing of it, I understand it a little better than I did at the time.

 Since then I’ve had one exchange of letters with Christine, who writes (in August 1981), “I’ve decided that living on a sailboat tied up in the Brisbane River is what you call a dead loss…” Apparently Seahawk has become a river duck, and it sounds as if Christine, who once told me, “The boat is Michael’s dream, I always wanted to fly an airplane,” would like to spread her wings. She’d make a sailor; Michael never will.

Mike and Rod and I tucked into the first pub we came to, and in the middle of my second glass of ice-cold Aussie beer I suddenly remembered a joke I’d heard from my friend Seiffe in New Zealand. 

Question:  What’s green and sits in the corner? 

Answer:  The Incredible Sulk.

                   

Trekking the Khumbu in Nepal

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Trekking the Khumbu in Nepal   

September 14 – November 29, 2013

by Joseph Stevenson

@ Mt Everest

Joseph with Everest and Lhotse – from Gokyo Ri.

In the fall of 2013 I spent 9 weeks in Nepal, most of it up high in the valleys around the Mt Everest region — the Khumbu as it is known. I whittled my pack weight down to 35 lb and carried my own gear throughout the trek with the exception of one day when I was just too sick and needed to quickly retreat to a lower altitude. Carrying no camping gear except for a warm sleeping bag, I stayed in the many “tea houses” that dot the popular trekking routes at an average cost of less than $25/day for an unheated room and 3 meals a day. I spent at least 6 weeks at elevations above 11,000 ft, getting as high as 18,500 ft.

I knew before I left that from time to time I would encounter internet access and had promised to send emails to folks back home when possible. What follows is a digest of those emails, sent from various locations often under difficult circumstances: cranky keyboards, bad connections, freezing fingers etc. Not a polished piece by any means, it does paint a picture of the scene at the top of the world, the people who flock to see it, and the thoughts that swirl in the mind as you trudge through what seems in retrospect a gorgeous blur.

September 14 – Astoria, Oregon (before I left home)

Dear Friends & Family,

By now most of you know that I’m going to Nepal to do some trekking in the high Himalayas. I’m scheduled to leave Seattle on Sept. 18th and return on Nov. 22nd. I will enter and leave Nepal via Kathmandu, but will spend most of my time on the trails. The first plan is to fly to Lukla (this landing is worth a search on YouTube — look for “World’s Most Dangerous Airport”) and then walk north on what is called the “3 Passes Trek” through the Khumbu region. This should take maybe 4-6 weeks, taking my sweet time. Upon returning to Kathmandu, if I haven’t had enough of trekking my plan is to head north into the Helambu and Langtang areas for the balance of my time. If you want to know more you can Google some of those names. No, I am not going to be climbing Everest or any other mountaineering peak, but they will be on display all around me, and the 3 passes on my proposed route are all over 18,000 feet.

You are getting this little fare-thee-well because I have put you in a group email that my brother Ted will manage. It will rarely be possible for me to send emails (and I’m not even bothering to take a phone), so when I can get a message to him he will forward it to you. That’s about all the communication there’s going to be until I get back to the states.

I’m going alone, which has it’s pros and cons. It’s not my first choice but was dictated by circumstances — could’t find anybody. The pros include complete independence as to where I go, stop, or linger. Therefore all plans are tentative and subject to change except for the departure date which is fast approaching. I will try to be more judicious in the mountains than I typically tend to be, and hope that all goes well. This is obviously bucket list territory, so if I end up in a bucket, know that I went out on top of the world, and thinking of you.

September 21 – Kathmandu

Arrived Kathmandu (henceforth to be known as ”Ku-City”) yesterday after a series of flights totaling 45 hours start to finish. My Sherpa family met me as arranged previously by Nawang Furba who works as a chef in Astoria. I was carrying a suitcase with 44 lb of presents he bought for his Ku-City family, making me a sherpa for the Sherpas. As best I can figure it out I am 12 hrs 45 min ahead of PDT, so my bio-clock is turned on its head. As tired as I was from the trip I had no trouble sleeping.

Tomorrow another member of the family is going to take me on a whirlwind (motorbike) round of errands for bank, maps, permits, etc. and I’ll fly to Lukla on Tuesday the 24th. This 24-yr-old Sherpa has summited Everest 7 times already and showed me a photo of himself on top with the record-setting 80-yr-old Japanese guy earlier this year. Fate has delivered me into the hands of experts. Too bad he can’t go with me. My biggest problem is the heat, in the 90s when I arrived, today a breeze made it feel cooler. I washed clothes earlier today, hung them on the roof, and in 2 hrs they were dry, even the wool socks. The staple diet seems to be white rice with vegetable curry, a yellow lentil soup poured over it, served with a side dish of deadly chili sauce — 1/2 tsp is plenty! — plus many little snacks and treats.

Before the heat of the day, Nawang’s daughter Futi walked me to the big Buddhist temple of Boudanath where I turned many a prayer wheel, bowed to many an image, and did 3 full (flat-out) prostrations to the great stupa on well-worn wooden planks. The streets are a chaos of people & honking vehicles, shops and sidewalk vendors, dust, smoke and exhaust. Pigeons dominate the temple grounds, ravens seem to rule elsewhere. I’ve seen this brand of chaos before, some 25 years ago, but then it took 2 years to get that far down the road — this is pretty sudden. The heat should take care of itself once I get to higher ground.

I’ve already met some great people and had some great conversations on the planes. The family just called Nawang via Skype — he tells me it’s 12:30 am in Astoria, it’s 1:15 pm here; you figure it out.

September 29 – Namche Bazar

Due to various complications it has taken me a long time to get another email out. This computer makes corrections very difficult — it took me 1 1/2 hours just to get into my email account.

I escaped the heat and tumult of Ku City on 9-24, flying to Lukla in a 2-prop plane, viewing a few sky-piercing peaks along the way. At the Ku airport I met a British couple with 8-yr-old triplets. I watched as Daddy leashed and carabinered each darling girl to her Teddy bear — what a good Dad! Today 5 days later I ran into them all on the trail heading uphill.

Anyway no sooner I got to Lukla it began to rain and it went on all night and next morning. A headache that had started in Ku City continued to blossom and I was keen to lose some altitude but didn’t want to trek in the pouring rain. The lodge I stayed at was run by a majestic Sherpa woman who’d been there for at least 30 years; there were photographs of her with Edmund Hillary on the wall. I asked her about cheaper alternatives to flying out of Lukla for the trip home. I’d heard that recently a bus route had been established to a town about 2 days hike to the south of Lukla, making it possible to ride a bus back to Kathmandu at a fraction of the cost. “No no no you mustn’t ride the bus,” she exclaimed, “the bus is hódeeble, hódeeble!!!” I loved the way that came out, spoken very quickly at high volume and pitch, peaking on the first syllable. It became a little mantra for me later when things went bad on the trail and I needed cheering up.

Finally around 11 it cleared a little and I headed up-trail (downhill) for Phakding where I spent the next two nights until the headache lifted. On the 27th I climbed to Namche at 11,400 feet where I stayed at a place recommended by a friendly policeman:

“You stay at the Hilton,” he said.

“What??” I said, “In America, Hilton veeeeeery expensive!!”

“Yes, in America but no the same here — Heeeelton!” he stressed. After some hilarious back and forth he finally wrote it on the palm of his hand — “HILL TEN” and we both had a good laugh. The Hill Ten turned out to be just fine, anything would have been fine after that climb, I was toast.

In the morning I called my Sherpa friend Tschering (the motorcycle riding, Everest climbing 24-yr-old) and he insisted I move to another place run by his friend (also Tschering). So here I sit trying to write on Tschering’s MacBook which freezes about every sentence and you have to play with the scroll bar to get it moving again.

Today I did a dayhike to Kumjung (12,560′) where I had noodle soup in the kitchen of a tiny teahouse that caters mostly to school kids from the Hillary School across the road (trail) and porters. On the way up I caught two glimpses of Everest itself and lots of great views of the much more elegant Ama Dablam. Again I ran into the triplets with their parents. All had suffered various forms of altitude sickness but like me they are all recovered and adjusting their plans towards the more ambitious. One of the triplets had actually thrown up in the dining room when they got to Lukla. The girls are all carrying small packs and flying small Nepali flags somebody gave them, but the family did hire a porter to help out with their gear. Their goal at this point is to hike up the central valley to Gokyo with its emerald lakes and alpine vistas. They are posting to a blog at <www.travelswithtriplets.com>, check it out.

[Note: I did when I got home — it’s awesome! Beautifully done, lots of photos, even some video, and all of them write for it including the girls. One broke her leg later in another part of Nepal but they are soldiered on, and didn’t return to England until September 2014, nearly a a year after I met them at the Ku City airport. There’s even a detailed account of what they spent — you’ll be surprised how little it cost!]

Tomorrow I will head up to Tengboche (13,000 ft+) and see how I feel. Oh…I have to tell you, some of the best Nepali humor happens in the toilet. At Lukla: “Gentlemen: You aim will help, stand closer it’s shorter than you think. Ladies: Please remain seated for the entire performance.” And at a small teahouse john in Monjo: “Keep me clean and treat me well, and what I’ve seen I’ll never tell.” That last one sounds vaguely familiar…

And a word about the porters, the 18-wheelers of Nepal. In Lukla I saw a porter dwarfed by 5 mattresses on his back, a boy carrying a full-size couch on a sheet of 1/2″ plywood, an old man carrying 2 cases of whiskey and 2 cases of beer, and a very small boy toting 2 cases of Mars bars. According to the airport scale I am carrying nearly 40 lb, and after the ass-kicking I got between Phakding and Namche I realize that some of that has got to go. I’ll be leaving some things with Tschering in Namche if I’m to have any hope of doing half the route I want to do. But those porters…they keep you humble.

I hope that life is being good to you whatever you’re up to. Please send me whatever psychic/spiritual/telepathic help you can. I walk clockwise around every stupa and mani wall, turn every prayer wheel — I need all the help I can get.

October 4 – Dingboche

Where were we — Namche last time? I’ve done two days of hiking up since then — now at a little over 14,000 feet in Dingboche after spending two nights in Tengboche at 12,000 something. I’ve got another altitude headache but I did have an actual HOT SHOWER today! It would take too long to describe how that was accomplished but I will say that the water was heated by bottled gas, I did not contribute to the further deforestation of the Khumbu.

Tengboche is the home of probably the most famous Buddhist monastery in the Khumbu. I attended a chanting service in the ceremonial room, probably the most ornate room I’ve ever seen ever. The monks were outnumbered by the trekkers. On each side of the central alter were two Jizo bodhisattva figures about 10 feet tall, pretty much identical to the Jizo figures at the Great Vow Monastery in Clatskanie, 40 miles up the river from Astoria. Jizo gets around.

There was a monastery information center outside the grounds. I paid 100 rupees (about a dollar) to look at the exhibits and watch a short film. When I asked about the film I was told the DVD player was broken and wasn’t likely to be fixed anytime soon. I did really enjoy the exhibits, really informative on many aspects of Buddhism and the ecological challenges in the Khumbu. Here are a few quotes I copied down:

 “The Tibetan name for Everest, Chomolungma, is a reference to Miyo-Langsangma, the Sister who gives food. She rides a tiger and is very beautiful. In her right hand is a bowl of food, and by her left side is a mongoose spitting jewels.”

“Modern industrial society is a fanatical religion. We are demolishing, poisoning and destroying all life systems on the planet. We are signing IOUs that our children will not be able to pay. We are acting as if we were the last generation on the planet. Without a radical change in heart, in mind and vision, the earth will end up like Mars, charred and dead.” J.A. Lutzenberger – The Sunday Times.

And this on the preciousness of this human life we’ve been given: “To be born a human being is said to be more difficult than for a blind turtle in a vast ocean the size of a universe to surface accidentally with its head poking through the single wooden ring floating on the surface.”

Well that will have to do it for now — I need to go rest my aching head. I should tell you that I have been in the clouds for three days now and have not had a glimpse of the mountains since I got my peek at Everest. No hurry, my time will come.

October 14 – Pheriche

Coming down from Everest base camp (EBC) I have hit unexpected snow, very unusual for October — there’s a foot on the ground and its still coming down hard. All of this thanks to a cyclone that brushed the tip of India, enough to ruffle the weather up her in what’s supposed to be the best month of the year. Actually I’ve seen more wet, or at least cloudy days than clear since I got to Nepal. Luckily I have lots of time and living up here (room and meals) is costing me less than $25/day.

To catch up, after my last email I hiked up to Chukung at about 16,500 ft elevation and had more headache. I spent 3 nights there and only on the last day did the skies clear for the first time. With a daypack I scurried up nearby Chukung Ri (18,000 ft) for splendid views in all directions, looking right at Ama Dablam, perhaps the the most beautiful of the Khumbu peaks, and so close to Nuptse (actually just the highest point on a steep snowy ridge) that it blocks the view to the NW and Everest. Having suffered no further problems with headache after 3 nights in Chukung and my side trip up Chukung Ri, I thought my altitude problems would be over, but alas it was not to be.

The internet is so slow here (no wonder with the weather and the satellite connection) that I think I will have to leave off here and pick up the narrative under better conditions later. Juan from Spain has been kind enough to loan me his MacBook, and with a half hour just to load my email account this much has taken an hour. So much more to tell….

October 15 – Pheriche

Picking up where I left off when the net went down yesterday: personalities. You meet so many interesting adventurers up here. For my hike up Chukung Ri I brought plenty of water but only one hard boiled egg to eat. When I got to the top I groped fruitlessly in my daypack for the egg, finally turning it upside down and dumping out everything. No egg. The raven sitting 10 feet away up on top of the summit shrine laughed at me. (Turns out I left it in my room.) So on the way down I met a young Austrian woman and her guide practically leaping up this steep rocky trail I had just dragged my ass up with both hands. When she heard my boiled egg story she broke out a tin of delicious Austrian chocolate and gave me 3 or 4 big chunks….like an angel straight from heaven! Later back at the lodge I learned that she was with a group aiming to climb Island Peak, a 20,000+ ft “trekking peak” (meaning some mountaineering equipment required but not a full-on mountaineering climb). But for her, Island Peak. was just a tune-up for climbing Ama Dablam, a much more serious mountaineering venture. I’ve never hung out with people like this or seen them in action (cept maybe my friend Mort), but Sabrina was as sweet and humble as they come.

Other notable personalities I got to know:

Rafaele, a 30-yr old stereotypically outgoing, friendly and dramatic Italian social worker who works with autistic children on a farm/school. Two weeks after meeting in Chukung I ran into him again in the dark outside a tea house in another valley, recognizing him by the merry sound of his voice.

Tony, a 64-yr old German retired hospital administrator who, like me, likes to travel alone. Tony travels a lot — this is just the early phase of a trip that will go on into next spring. He sizes up every woman he sees hoping to spot wife #3.

Julie & Pascal, 30-something palliative care nurses from Switzerland, again stereotypically the diametric opposite of Italian Rafael — perfectly sweet and responsive if asked direct questions, but apparently no actual curiosity about anything or anybody else.

Dan & Lynn from Wash. D.C., government employees whose paychecks stopped abruptly about a week earlier, which is how I found out about the 2013 American government shutdown. “What about congress?” I asked, “Are they still getting paid?” somehow knowing the answer already before they told me “Oh yes, they passed a bill exempting themselves.” That’s our Congress for ya!

From Chukung I gingerly worked my way higher, but when I hit 17,000 ft near Everest base camp (EBC as they call it up here), the headache was back. By now the trekking season is in full swing, nearly everybody headed for EBC, so the last lodging on that route was so full of trekkers that I ended up spending quite the “hódeeble” night with my headache outside in a tent in sub-freezing weather.

Well dear friends, this emailing from cafe computers is not working out so well. Unfamiliar keyboards, antic jumps of the cursor, letters that don’t work half the time (“t” on this particular  laptop), make it a slow, frustrating, and expensive proposition when it is possible at all. Hate to leave it hanging but there you are, my hour is up.

Appreciate your life!

October 17 – Namche

I’m back to Namche after an 11-hr marathon day on the trail yesterday, covering the same distance it took me 3 days of hiking to go up — and not because it was all downhill. Up high (over 14,000 ft) the trails pretty much go up or down, but below Tengboche the canyon walls are so steep and the river crossings frequent enough that you do nearly as much up as down when going “downhill”. I read somewhere that getting up as high as I went involves 24,000 ft of climbing and 12,000 ft of downhill. Anyway Pheriche to Namche in a day is unusual for a laden trekker.

I had my first fall of the trip on a long steep downhill amid some heavy traffic of trekkers heading up after all the bad weather delays. I slipped on something, rolled down the hill hitting my head on something hard and crashing into a terrified Chinese girl as I came to rest against a big rock. She managed to stay on her feet, uninjured, and I seem to have escaped with only a lump in front of my left ear that only hurts when I try to eat. No blood lost.

My last email left you hanging with me in a tent with a headache at 17,000 ft as I recall. I woke up the next morning with the same poison headache and decided to head downhill. On the way up I’d spotted a peak in the distance that looked just like Everest, so I figured what the hell, I’ve already seen Everest several times, no need to hike to base camp or the famous Kala Pattar viewpoint just to get a little closer view of the top of the world. So I hiked back down to Lobuche at 16,000 ft and indeed the headache relented.

But the next morning, just as I was about to head down from there, I found out that the Everest look-alike I’d been admiring for days was not actually Everest. So I immediately grabbed a daypack, scampered back up to Gorek Shep and on up to Kala Pattar (18.000 ft) for the Everest view, and back to Lobuche in less than 8 hours. Without the heavy pack I was suddenly transformed into the fastest trekker on the trail — a great ego boost for Mr. Slow. Next day I went down to Pheriche where I was snowed in for three days, and I don’t think anybody’s seen Everest since, so I was very lucky.

Now back in Namche for my first hot shower in about 2 weeks, clothes washed for the first time since home, oh yeah. I’ll be here 2 or 3 days then head up the western valley, leaving behind the crowds of Everest-bound trekkers, and see more of the old-school high country life the way it was before the invasion of the trekker army. I’ve pretty much decided to spend my whole trip up here exploring one valley at a time — no passes for me, too high and too long a day for me without hiring help. I’d say maybe 1 in 10 trekkers I’ve seen appear to be operating without guide and/or porters. Oh that reminds me, apparently Jimmy Carter and Roselyn were up here in 1985. I saw a signed photo at Tengboche monastery and some horribly spelled bragging on the wall of a place in Pheriche; I don’t know if they made it to Kala Pattar, but I’ll bet they had some porters and guides.

[Note: Later, in a book at Powell’s I found an account written by Carter of his climb up Kala Pattar. Sounds like his guide had him continue up the ridge to a slightly higher peak than the one I was at, and in much worse weather. Good for Jimmy.]

Coming down my only stop other than lunch was at a Buddhist nunnery on the outskirts of Deboche, just above the more famous Tengboche Monastery. I left my pack at the gate with the beaming old man doing chores (every monastery in Asia seems to have one, the beaming old man that is) and entered the modest front gate. Inside the first yard I turned the giant prayer wheel which rings a bell with every revolution, and a shy young nun appeared. After a great deal of sign language back and forth she ushered me, now bootless and hatless, into the main shrine room/meditation hall, very like a miniature of the larger and grander Tendboche up the hill. She bent over a long narrow book and appeared to be studying/reciting the text while I did my prostrations on the plank floor worn smooth with a century of barefoot traffic, and then explored the room in the profound hush. The walls, ceiling, posts, everything covered with paintings of Buddhas & Bodhisattvas, demons and saints. The images (statuary) on the far wall all behind glass, the rest of the wall covered in tiny cubbyholes — 44 on each side of the central images. With more sign language I determined that each contained books, presumably similar to the one she was reading, as all you could see from the outside was folded cloth. On the way out I left a donation — apparently they are very poor cousins to their brethren on the hill.

Well it seems I am finally getting the hang of using other people’s computers — last time I used this one it drove me crazy. Anyway I like this high country tho I wish the weather would get better. Out of about 24 days above Lukla I’ve had maybe 7 nice days. Even now we never really got sun here. The moon is nearly full but who can see it? Still I’m happy to stay up here as long as I can and return to the hell of Ku City only when it’s time to fly home, roughly 5 weeks from now.

Blessing to all from the top of the world.

October 26 – Namche

Back in Namche for the third time, the gateway to and grand central market for the whole Khumbu region. There is much to say about Namche but I didn’t come up here to see gateways or go shopping, so if you want images of its spectacular setting and colorful markets (as with any of the place names I drop into these letters) there’s alway good ol Google. I came to get close to these sky-piercing peaks and get a taste of Sherpa culture and meet these gentle-natured and physically remarkable Buddhist people.

Originally from Tibet, the Sherpa began to come into Nepal from the north 300-500 yrs ago, and things accelerated in the 20th century with the Chinese occupation. The earliest migration began possibly because of religious persecution by other younger and more aggressive Vajrayana sects. Even today the Buddhist monastics here are trying to get the lay Sherpa to turn away from the old Bon (pre-Buddhist) animistic spirit traditions that got folded into the new faith that reached the Himalayas over 1000 years ago. Outside of the monasteries the Sherpa still cling stubbornly to the old land spirits, water spirits, tree spirits etc, one reason the landscape — the hilltops and passes, every bridge, certain trees, all monuments and memorials and every house are decked with prayer flags. Long lines of them, some at least as long as a football field, can be seen running from peak-let to peak-let, across canyons and rivers. As they flutter in the wind the prayers are sent flying across the land, and they say that anyone who breathes that air is blessed. If that is so, then Nepal in general and Khumbu in particular is a great place to receive abundant blessings.

From the summit Everest on down it’s hard to find a view w/o prayer flags. I thought I had found one the other day, but putting down my load and sitting for 5 minutes, at the top of a ridge miles away I made out the silhouette of a line of flags against the bright blue sky, strung between two rocky points on the ridge. Then I saw another string lower down across a gully, and then another over here, and two over there…

The Sherpa believe that saying prayers, making offerings at the home alter or the monastery, just breathing in this well-blessed air and many other rituals that I don’t see and am not aware of, takes away their sins. However one prayer does not erase one sin, it’s not that easy. Therefore various mechanized systems of praying (eg: the flags and prayer wheels etc) are employed for mass-production purposes. Here and there you see elderly Sherpas repeating their prayers using a rosary or mala to keep count, sometimes sitting in a doorway, or even walking up a trail, presumably trying to make up for all the drinking, gambling and fooling around that Sherpas love to do when they’re young (don’t we all?) before their time runs out and they get reborn as a dog or a chicken or worse.

Sherpa children are the cutest. In the shops of Namche glossy calendars of Sherpa or Nepali children rival those with images of these world-famous peaks. Sherpa men dress pretty much like a Western working-class Joe, while Sherpa women, at least after they marry, almost always wear a long heavy black skirt with an apron almost as long with horizontal stripes so fine you have to be pretty close to see that the lines are multi-colored. I have not seen these aprons for sale in Namche but I will ask — I’d like to see this cloth up close. And Sherpa girls….what can I say, many are just drop-dead beautiful, take an old man’s breath away.

I just returned yesterday from my journey up the westernmost valley of the Khumbu, a ‘road less travelled’ for sure. Gone were the traffic jams of yaks, dzopkio (a yak-cow hybrid), and trekkers. In 3 days I got as high as you can go without crossing the Renjo La pass (18.000 ft) to the next valley to the east, still closed due to all the snow last week, or the Tashi Labtsa pass north into Tibet, closed by the Chinese. At my first stop in Thame I met young Jacob, a mountaineering EMT from Colorado who was trying to get down the valley from Gokyo after the big snow started when he witnessed an avalanche on the narrow trail that killed 2 dzopkio and swept their herder into the raging river below. Luckily no one was killed, but a lot of trekkers around him needed a change of underwear afterwards. Or at least that’s how Jacob told it. He  told me he’d spent the next several days assisting with the rescued victims at the Machermo clinic before continuing with his trek.

Later, when trekking up the Gokyo valley, I attended another altitude sickness lecture at the rescue post in Machermo, and afterwards asked the doctor about Jacob’s story. She told me that Jacob had arrived at their clinic after the avalanche in a state of traumatic shock. The accident he described caused them to mobilize for a major emergency with dozens of victims. This turned out to be a huge overreaction, and she remarked that in the days that followed Jacob had been more of a nuisance than a help.

In Thame I stayed at a lodge owned by Apa Furba Sherpa, renown as the man who’s climbed Everest more times than anyone else, something like 19 times now. He currently lives in New York but his brother is running the lodge. There is TV in the dining room and the porters sit channel surfing, switching the station every time a commercial comes on. At one point the movie “Mr Bean’s Holiday” came on and I found out once again how many people can’t stand my idol Mr Bean.

One night a man with no fingers or thumbs came into the dining room selling his paintings. A former climbing guide he lost his digits to frostbite but apparently can still hold a brush somehow — how I never was able to determine. I did buy a painting and managed to get it home in one piece, a sweet portrait of two danphes, the pheasant-like national bird of Nepal, with amazing detail, a lot of it edged in gold.

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[Years later I found an account from another trekker of meeting this same artist In Thame in 2015. He reported his name as Pasang Nuru and that he lost most of his fingers and toes crossing the Nangpa La pass from Tibet in 1975. Yesterday I photographed the painting that I bought in 2013 and I managed to insert it here. The style is very typical of traditional Sherpa art. It measures 30″ X 8″ and is the loveliest piece  I have ever brought home from an adventure. — June 2024]

Also in Thame I hiked up to the regional monastery clinging to the side of a canyon looking across at a magnificent wall of 20,000 ft peaks. Moving on, I hiked from Thame up into the snow-covered village of Lungden, where a double-whammy dose of headache and nausea confirmed that on this trip I have to go slow and re-acclimatize every time I gain altitude. For one day I was too sick and weak to do anything; the next day I realized I needed to get down to lower altitude no matter what, so I hired a porter to carry my pack down to the next village Marlung, the only time I was to hire help. After a night in Marlung I felt better and got myself down to Thame, and back to Namche a day or two later.

I’m sitting in the Danphe Cafe (serving Starbucks coffee) as the afternoon fades once the sun disappears behind the towering peaks, music blasting both inside the cafe and through the open windows from the Irish pub (“the world’s highest”) across the alley. My fingers stiff with cold, my ears ringing with John Lee Hooker, Steppenwolf, Janis Joplin…

I contemplate my next move. I’m getting tired, and I get sick every time I go up, but I’ve got to see Gokyo if I possibly can, with the emerald green lakes and great views including 3 of the world’s 10 highest peaks. I’ve got nearly 3 weeks before I need to fly back to Ku City, I can take a week getting up to Gokyo and still have plenty of time. And if it gets too painful I can bail anytime, I’ve had my fun….but I’m goin’ for it.  Now I’m hearing B. B. King’s “The Thrill is Gone” — but it isn’t, not quite yet.

November 4 – Gokyo

I had accepted the likelihood of failure when I started up the third and last valley in the Khumbu. What with all the headache problems seemingly triggered by altitude over and over again, I promised myself that I wasn’t going to kill myself getting up here. I planned to take a leisurely 5 days, ended up taking 7, but yesterday morning I cruised into Gokyo with nothing more than half-frozen fingers to complain about. You need to Google “Gokyo, Nepal ” immediately — there’s no way to adequately describe the scenery up here. Suffice to say that there’s a huge turquoise green lake at my feet and if you climb the small moraine behind the lodges you look down on the Ngozumpa Glacier, a seemingly endless river of rubble-covered ice running down from an immense snowy ridge to the north with Cho Oyu (the world’s 6th highest mountain) at one end and Gyachung Kang (the 16th highest) at the other. There is still snow everywhere from the big fall — 3 weeks ago now? — and some of the day trips are impossible for someone like me who did not come to Nepal prepared to trudge through snow. It’s not supposed to snow in October…

A few notes about the journey up: my first day was longer and harder than I planned and once I was ready to take refuge in a lodge I was told “no room”. There was nothing else in sight, but after an hour’s search I found probably the worst lodge ever, and I would have been turned away from that one too if Yuri, a 53-yr old mad Ukrainian athletic coach hadn’t agreed to let me share his room. Yuri had just 2 days before climbed about 7000 ft in one day, camped in a tent in the snow at 18,000 ft , crossed a pass and then came down quick, and now he wasn’t feeling all that great. We communicated mostly with sign language and the few words of English he knew, but he was full of enthusiasm about everything. In the morning he pulled out a harmonica and played a basic version of the Happy Birthday song. I’m not sure that tune means ‘happy birthday’ in the Ukraine but it was apparently the only song he knew. I did manage to get across that I’d had a birthday 2 days before (and the significance of the song he played) and before he took off to run up another valley he presented me with a Ukrainian Snickers bar.

The food at this lodge was mostly inedible, and for breakfast I had 2 bowls of muesli with hot milk — hard to ruin that — but it failed to really start my engines, so faced with some tough uphill first thing (stairs really), I soon stopped by a waterfall and ate my Ukrainian Snickers which got me to the next village. Here I stopped to nurse a small headache but by the second morning I was ready to rumble again. The next 3 villages were pretty much the same altitude, each with it own attractions, so I spent a night in each, and one more a little higher before making the final push to Gokyo. This last section was where the avalanches had occurred in the early days of the big snow.

I was  apprehensive about this steep, narrow, icy section, now very muddy lower down, so I set out very early without a real breakfast hoping at least the mud would still be frozen. The sun reached down into this gully just as I was about give up that my fingers would ever be warm again — then came a little bridge, and the first of the 6 Gokyo lakes appeared. Cold to the bone, I marveled at the dabbling ducks paddling on it’s surface, but I guess that’s what ducks do isn’t it? Soon after that I saw a fat little pika (rather like a big hamster) who looked like he was expecting treats from me. Then a second lake, and then the third, and Gokyo. Later, after finding a lodge with edible food, I hiked up to the ridge and nearly tripped over a flock a the Tibetan Snowcocks who paid me not the slightest attention as they went about their business, pecking at the thawing turf and seemingly extracting something they thought was yummy. One other wildlife note– I finally saw an actual danphe (the beautiful pheasant and national bird of Nepal) pecking away in a garden at the top of Namche on my way out of town. So except for the mule deer and the very rarely spotted snow leopard, I’ve now seen about all the high altitude wildlife there is. At first glance at least it’s about 95% crows and ravens.

Tomorrow AM I will try one more 18,000 ft peak across the valley from the top of which you can see half the world apparently, and then a lazy day and it’s time to turn my footsteps homeward. I should be back in Ku City by the 17th, and flying out the 19th I think. I may dilly-dally along the way if Qatar Airways will let me, but I should be back in my own bed by the first of December at the latest. It’s been a fabulous trip; I’m glad I did it alone without guide or porter, the freedom to go at my own pace without any pressures was key.

But it’s almost over, and I feel I’ve had my fill. I hope never to be cold again.

November 6 – Gokyo

Yesterday at noon I made the summit of Gokyo Ri. It turned out not to be another “18er”, but only 17,500 ft. I love it when that happens! As it was it was climb enough, a 4-hour unrelenting steep trail through turf, rock, mud and finally snow. For the very first time in 6 weeks I had a trail companion Connie, the charming wife of an equally charming 81-yr-old who’d really hit the wall getting up to Gokyo and stayed back at the lodge trying to wheedle a doctor into signing off on a paper that would justify (to his insurance) a helicopter evacuation to Kathmandu. Frank & Connie live in Canada and have somehow managed to raise 3 children and still spend about half their lives traveling the world. They’ve trekked in the Khumbu six times since 1985, when they met Jimmy Carter on his visit with Rosalind and Amy. When Connie and I got to the bottom of the hill we were met by a chatty English doctor who’d been sent out to look for us — seems Frank had gotten his ticket to ride and a helicopter was scheduled to scoop them up in about 90 minutes.

Earlier, as we began our descent it suddenly dawned on me that this was the turning point, that every step from now on was a step closer to home. The climb is over, I will never ever be this high again. No more agenda, just a safe return, still having to scrutinize every footstep.

Last night as I was engineering my old fork, toothpick and salt cellar stunt in the dining room, a Chinese-Australian engineer asked me what was the most interesting thing I’d seen in my 6 weeks up here, and I didn’t really have a good answer. What there has been is a long haul through some of the world’s highest mountains, unique wildlife, great conversations with adventurous people from all over the world (27 different countries so far), peeks into the the world of the amazing Sherpa people and the high monasteries of “Red Hat” Vajrayana Buddhism, freak weather, wild-ass card games, the jingle-jangle of the yaks and dzopkios, tiny fragrant rhododendrons perfuming the breeze….a gorgeous blur.

I’ve loved every bit of my time up here, well maybe not so much the headaches or the constant battle with the cold… The greatest lesson is the one I’ve been taught over and over again in this oddly blessed life of mine: have a dream, a goal, a plan — adjust it if you need to — but JUST KEEP GOING and it’s astonishing what you can do. On this trip that stubborn perseverance has been tempered a bit by an awareness of how threadbare my safety net is. It’s a tightrope I’ve walked before — but never this high off the ground as it were.

So from the heights back to the seashore and the home that I love so much there are many steps, but there is a special quality to the steps that are bringing you back to the people and the places that you’ve loved so long. Still you have to be watching for that loose rolling rock that wants to break your ankle or your neck as a parting gift…

The other piece, which I speculated about on the way to Gokyo and seemed to have confirmed this afternoon, is that I am about exhausted. I think when you’re young, acclimatize easily, and in shape, you will get stronger as time goes on, however age takes it’s toll and even seasoned climbers start to deteriorate after some time at altitude. I took my third hot shower in 6 weeks a few hours ago and afterwards climbed about 300 feet up the moraine to say goodbye to the Ngozumpa glacier, see the afternoon sun glinting off the green waters of the 3rd Gokyo lake and maybe warm up a little, and I swear to you I didn’t think I was going to make it. The gas tank is about empty and even the deeeelicious chicken cutlet that you can get at this lodge for about the same price as at home doesn’t seem to fix the problem (and I had two). There’s some up and down on the way out, and my pack will get heavier once I get back to Namche and all the gear I jettisoned there, but I have plenty of time and I seem to know how to KEEP GOING.

And for a good news closer, I just found out from the lodge owner that yes, the 8-yr-old triplets — Scarlet, Evie, and Jemima — did make it up to Gokyo about a month ago. I was reminded to ask when a 10-yr-old girl walked into the dining room today. And did I mention the Swiss guy with the “alp horn” playing on top of Gokyo Ri?

November 17 – Kathmandu

Between Gokyo and Namche (after the ‘turning point’) I met 3 more diverse but kindred souls. Here are their stories.

Emma:   I think I mentioned that in Gokyo I was reminded to ask about the triplets by the arrival of a 10 yr old girl. Later that day I struck up a conversation with her — Emma — and she turned out to be from California and one of the friendliest most outgoing people I met on this whole trip. She and her hot teenage sister Henna were both dark Hispanic beauties like their mother, their father Steve was straight-arrow Americano. All of them were sweet as pie, but Emma and I had some especially great conversations about words and language such as tricks to employ to best communicate with someone who speaks only a little of your native tongue, which languages are easier or harder to learn and why, and why visiting a country just because you like the sound of it’s name is a great idea.

Emma is at that perfect age when she is looking out at the wider world and still full of curiosity, but not yet to the stage when all adults are suddenly stupid and not worth talking to. In my experience it’s usually a narrow window, but thanks to parents who took the trouble to take their daughters to the top of the wider world, Emma and Henna may be able to hop, skip and jump through the more self-conscious phases of growing up. Talking to Emma was having someone’s complete attention, compelling you to give the same — it felt wonderful, like a foot massage at the end of a long hard day.

Piran:   Piran grew up in Cornwall, near Land’s End, the peninsula at the SW tip of England. He was named after an Irish saint who was beheaded on the beach rather than renounce his faith. Back in the old days the quickest route to sainthood was to endure some sort of gruesome death, nowadays it takes a bit more of a resumé. Look at poor Mother Teresa — still on the waiting list isn’t she?

Like me Piran never cared for school and gave it up early, but unlike me he was soon out in the wider world and has spent over 20 of his 42 years headquartered in Bali where he designs handicrafts for export, executed by Bali’s myriad fine craftsmen, and then ships to his distributors all over the world. He told me he works just enough to support himself and allow plenty of time for travel and surfing. Like many an ex-pat he seems to have a bit of a substance abuse issue, and confided that one reason he was up in the Khumbu was to “try and get off the booze.” To assist in this he showed me a iPod-sized chunk of “Nepal’s finest black hashish” that he fished out of his pocket, also a small ball of opium. As I was packing to leave he knocked on my door and offered me a piece of the hashish. I told him I appreciated the gesture but “that’s a piece of my life I left behind 12 years ago and have no interest in revisiting now.”

Piran and I talked and talked, and shared much the same outlook on the world. He was encouraged to hear that I was 45 years old before I ever knuckled down and worked in a more or less diligent fashion for 21 years. He was about halfway through training to be an occupational therapist when he finally flew the coop and hit the road  We exchanged emails and promised to stay in touch. He’s the first person I’ve met in the 30 years since I left Bali who knows the place better than I do, and names of places that haven’t passed my lips in all that time came popping out of the dusty overflowing file cabinets in the back of my musty dimly-lit old brain just like magic, like pulling rabbits out of a hat. I wouldn’t be that surprised to see Piran turn up in Astoria one of these days.

Willi:   Born in the Austrian alps in 1947, Willi came to Canada in the 60s and settled in the same area as Frank & Connie. As a teenager he began climbing in the nearby mountains, and as the years went by branched out into just about every avenue of outdoor adventure, on the ground, on the water, and in the air. Until he got married he worked for years as a bush pilot in Canada and Alaska, then he built an ultralight aircraft at home from a kit he bought in Beaverton, Oregon, and flew it for 10 years as far south as Texas and back. When his young son began bugging him to fly it as well, he got rid of the ultralight and took up flying gliders. His favorite route is to start in Minden, Nevada, get towed up to 3000 ft and then “catch the wave” as it were, soaring up as high as 18,000 ft over the Sierras, flying down to the Mojave desert, and if the conditions are right, return to Minden, a round trip of over 400 miles of sailing through the heavens with no motor to intrude on the ambiance. I had no idea you could do that — but Willi can and does.

 When I met him in Namche he was quietly celebrating his 65th birthday with a nice supper and a pint of rum, having just completed the long walk in from the town of Jiri (the “hódeeble” bus ride from Kathmandu) instead of flying to Lukla as I did, a tough up and down route that takes most people 9-12 days — Willi did it in 6. As it happened I had just quietly celebrated my 70th birthday, and when we parted he said “I just hope that when I’m your age I’m in as good shape as you”, which I took as a huge compliment tho I’ve never ever been in the kind of shape Willi’s in at 65. Hunting, fishing, climbing, backpacking, trekking, flying, gliding, kayaking — Willi does it all, usually alone and unassisted. About the only thing I’ve done that Willi hasn’t (yet) is jump out of an airplane. For all his years of flying ultralights and gliders he’s always worn a parachute as there’s always the chance that rogue turbulence might rip yr craft to shreds, but never had to deploy it. As for me, a lot of my adventures were intellectual, spiritual  or artistic, and it’s only as I’ve aged (and especially retired) that I’ve returned with a vengence to exploring the outer world, much as I did with my dog when I was 10. If I had been raised in Alaska instead of Hollywood I could well have turned out more like Willi, but again, as with Emma and Piran, there was seemingly an almost immediate bond between the two of us, lone-wolf grandfathers (“baji” the Nepalis call me) meeting on the road to the top of the world — no need to ask why.

November 19 – Kathmandu

6 AM

I scribble in my journal so much it’s hard to remember what I’ve already shared with you. I have no memory of talking about the trip down from Namche but it was pretty uneventful except for the departure of a cold virus and headache that kept me away from computer screens for awhile, and a noticeable increase in political activity on the trail. It all comes to a head today, election day, and I will add little updates to this as the day unfolds. I hope to follow my hosts to the polls and do some additional wandering explorations of the general atmosphere.

First some background as best I can scope it out. A ten year guerrilla war waged by “Maoist” (whatever that means) fighters ended in 2008 with a peace deal in which the king stepped down and a democracy of some sort was promised. In the elections that year the Maoists won an overwhelming majority of seats in a “Constituent Assembly” charged with writing a constitution. This they’ve been unable to do in 5 years tho the reasons why, the contentious issues, remain a complicated mystery to me. As a Nepali who sold me a wonderful singing bowl yesterday put it to me, “If they really wanted to get it done it would be easy: just take India’s constitution (India and Nepal are neighbors of course and the Nepali rupee is tied to the Indian rupee so their economies are in sync), erase the word India and write in Nepal.”

 In any case, there are now something like 33 communist parties of one stripe or another, and they are doing their best to undermine the election by declaring a general strike for election week paralyzing transport in most of the country and throwing fire bombs at vehicles defying the ban. So far one driver has died of burns and dozens of others including innocent passengers on buses trying to get back to their home villages to vote have been hospitalized. In addition some of the communist factions have been attacking each other, so when you condense all this into the newspaper it looks pretty grim. I haven’t seen any fighting but you certainly see well-armed police and military on the streets. It seems clear to me that the reason for this resistance to democracy is probably the natural reluctance of the party (or alliance) currently in power to allow an election that is certain (due to their failure to deliver a constitution) to be voted out or at least have their influence severely curtailed.

Meanwhile back in the USA we have a comparatively orderly “democracy” where it’s all about the money, and regardless of how you vote elections and politicians are bought and sold to the highest bidder…oh don’t get me started. Getting rid of a king is real change — when are we at home ever likely to see real change? And for a last footnote on Nepali politics, a few more party symbols to add to the list: the bird party, the praying hands party, the umbrella party, the drum party and yesterday I was told about the dog party, a tongue-in-cheek outfit headed by a 25-yr-old student that doesn’t put up posters, talks to people one-on-one, and makes a point to not use motor vehicles, they do all their campaigning on bicycles. The guy who told me (same guy I quoted above) thought they might win an assembly seat in his neighborhood at least.

2 PM

Just returned from a stroll in the neighborhood up to the local polling station located in Janakalyan Higher Secondary School. On the third floor balcony is painted: 

“Educated men are as much superior to uneducated men as the living are to the dead. — Aristotle”

Well I don’t know if Aristotle ever said such a thing — I wouldn’t go that far myself — but if it keeps you in school it’s probably for the best I suppose. Anyway there were about a hundred people chatting outside the gates of the school, some of them had probably already voted, other hadn’t gone in yet. At the gates were several APF (Armed Police Force) in blue camouflage clearly tired of holding their AK47s at the ready. Any prospective voter had to show their voter ID card and undergo a brief frisk before entering the school grounds. If there was a purple finger system to identify people who’d already voted I could not detect it.

At several intervals I noticed sizable groups of young men dressed in dark blue jackets looking very purposeful as they walked briskly down the road past the voting place. They looked very much like the groups I saw marching along in my last days on the trail in Khumbu except then those had the amplified bullhorn and the red hammer and sickle flag. There were always a number of other people in ordinary dress traveling with them and I guessed that perhaps they were party workers escorting their particular voters to another polling place. They never even looked in the direction of this polling station so the whole thing remains a mystery. A man who engaged me in conversation clearly didn’t know either tho we watched one of these groups go by as we talked. He ventured the opinion that maybe they were undercover police but this made no sense to me — if you are undercover you do not march around in large groups.

The only other mildly remarkable thing I saw was when I returned from a short wander down the road to buy myself a Kit Kat bar: one of the ways back into the polling place was seemingly blocked by 4 sizable men in dark clothing with their arms folded across their chests and menacing looks on their faces. I walked right at them as if they weren’t there and they parted to let me through. There was nothing overt about it, but they didn’t not look like the welcome wagon staff either. The fellow I talked to said that this place was very peaceful and that other polling stations were likely not so mellow, and that 5 years ago apparently things got really hairy. He was one of those stranded in Kathmandu, unable to get back to his home village in another province to vote.

Back at home and up on the roof, the air in the huge flat valley that is greater Kathmandu looked cleaner than I’ve ever seen it before. To the north there is a low spot in the nearby mountains through which you can now see a ridge of 3 snow-covered peaks looming large. Judging by what I saw in Khumbu these would have to be over 20,000 ft — Denali size mountains — and probably on the Tibetan border. You could hike right to the foot of those mountains from Ku City if you had a couple-three weeks, I actually had planned on something like that before I fell in love with the Khumbu and decided to spend all my time up there. Down on the street the lack of vehicular traffic is a bit of a miracle, and today the streets are full of children with jump ropes, hula hoops, and improvised cricket games. What few motorbikes there are are not in a hurry or kicking up dust, using the horn sparingly. Kathmandu is not a hell-hole today as I think I characterized it in one of my early emails. I’m glad I got to see its brighter side.

8 PM

Voting was over at 5 but most of what I know I found online. The TV in the next room doesn’t speak to me, mostly it’s news anchors chatting endlessly in Nepali and if there’s video there’s not much going on and it loops endlessly. What I read online is that there was 70% turnout in Kathmandu where the general strike was largely ineffective, elsewhere it was probably lower than that, but not bad for a new democracy with bombs going off. No reports of fatalities but bombs exploded in a number of locations including at least one in Ku City near a polling place when a child picked it up thinking it was some kind of toy. On TV earlier I saw a 90 yr old at the polls, and later a old guy 101 yrs old who looked a bit lost and didn’t have much to say. Two old folks keeled over and died after voting, ages 67 and 73 respectively, their last act in this life.

I spent a lot of the day starting to organize my gear. Because I brought a whole suitcase packed to the brim by Nawang Sherpa for his family, and I haven’t acquired much stuff myself, I have a lot of empty space to fill. I’m thinking about buying a large case of Wai Wai, Nepal’s version of Top Ramen, and stuffing all available space with the packets. They’re light and if they get crunched a little it won’t matter. I talked to Nawang via Skype today and he showed me the same Wai Wai noodle packets — he managed to find some in Portland — they’re much better than Ramen and not so salty. My project for tomorrow is to buy some presents for his family here, they have been so sweet to me. I have everything scoped out, I just need to make the buys and get it all home in a taxi. It’s so much fun to play Santa Claus — I actually look a lot like him these days.

POSTSCRIPT

To underline the international character of the trekking experience, here is my final list of countries I met people from. I didn’t quiz everybody I met so this is just a snapshot from one trekker, roughly in order of how many there seemed to be from particular countries starting with the undisputed champion trekker nation: Germany, followed by the UK, China, France, India, Nepal, Spain, Korea, USA, Japan, Italy, Australia, Israel, Switzerland, Taiwan, Venezuela, Austria, Brazil, Slovakia, Belgium, Poland, Slovenia, Canada, Russia, New Zealand, Holland, Ukraine, Ireland, Norway, and Singapore. The last on the list was added as I came down the homestretch from Gokyo. A bubbly little straggler from her group, moseying along with the ‘sweeper’ guide stopped me and asked me a number of questions. When she found out how old I was I instantly achieved celebrity status. She had the guide take several photos of us together —  I might as well have been Jimmy Carter or Methuselah himself. Unfortunately I didn’t have the presence of mind to give her my email address or I might be able to show you a photo of Nini from Singapore, my biggest fan.

So that will have to be the last word from Nepal — tomorrow I’ll need to focus on pulling myself together and getting my ass on the big airplane the next morning. It was great having one last look at the other side of the world. I think it’s unfortunate that so many people experience the world pretty much exclusively via books, TV, movies, the net and so forth, and never get out and see it for themselves. We all have our own paths and our own choices to make, I can only recommend the direct experience as worth a try, and hope these letters have whetted a few appetites out there. 

May the long time sun shine upon you, all love surround you, and the pure light within you guide you all the way on.

November 29, 2013 – Astoria, Oregon

Hearth and Home

A few of you I’ve seen or spoken to along the long road home, but for most of you this will announce that I have officially come to rest in Astoria. After so many recent evenings warming my cold soggy feet around oil drum stoves fueled with yak dung, my project for the year ahead is to make the “hearth” part of the above subject line a reality and get a wood stove installed in my current “home”. I lived for many decades cooking and heating with wood (out in the woods), and having moved into town 5 years ago I miss that glowing radiance. With age the chill seeps into the bones and cold feet seem to be unavoidable especially when life gets more sedentary. And sedentary is what I’m craving right now, I’ve had quite enough adventure — for this year at least.

I did not take a camera to the Khumbu — I wanted to be there rather than photographing there. Besides it would have meant an extra pound of gear. Connie from Canada sent me the photo  she took (featured at the top of this blog post) from the summit of Gokyo Ri of me with Everest over my right shoulder and Lhotse above my head. You may remember that Connie and I climbed Gokyo Ri on Nov 5th just before Frank got a medical 10-4 to fly out in a helicopter at the expense of his insurance company. While I was waiting for my flight out of Lukla a week later I ran into one of the docs from the Machermo & Gokyo clinics flying home to the UK after a 2-month tour of duty in the Khumbu. She told me, “That guy Frank was a tough call. He was stumbling around, showing all the cardinal signs of AMS (acute mountain sickness), but I happened to see him when he got on the helicopter and he practically skipped on board.” Well Frank is 81 yrs old and the only previous occasion that he ran up a travel insurance bill was about 20 years ago when he accidentally fell down a well in the dark near Lake Titicaca in the Andes and shattered his collarbone. This photo represents documentary evidence of “The Turning Point” and the beginning of the descent towards home as described in an email from Gokyo. The rest of the pictures are in my head, and in yours if you read all the way through this account.

So I wish you all well, happy holidays and all that, and remember, like Obama says: “Yes we can!” Even if he can’t, we certainly can.

Love, Joseph